is the vegetable wax (like beeswax) from
the flowers, the solid material that is left after the plant scent
is alcohol extracted and chilled. This separates the wax (the solid
material) from the essential oil. This process and new perfume
substance can only be done in the laboratory or in the perfume
industry. We instruct natural perfumery people in the use of these
wonderful products both in the
and in our
The production of
essential wax is a result of solvent extraction that is used on
delicate flowers whose scent would be destroyed by steam
distillation. Only the flowers that are undamaged and are freshly
picked and selectively chosen are collected and taken to the
extraction plant. The flowers are mixed with the solvent, which
results in the floral concrète. The concrète is then thoroughly
mixed with and dissolved in high proof (95%) alcohol. Then this is
chilled. The fragrant tincture and wax separates via the cold and
the tincture is filtered off. The wax is collected. The alcohol
tincture is treated via vacuum distillation or simple evaporation
that removes the alcohol leaving the absolute (scent).
taken to the extraction plant
mixed with high-proof alcohol
chilled = WAX + fragrant tincture
extracted + Scent
Essential Wax is mixed with 100% virgin Hazelnut oil (which
contains phospholipids, Oleic acid, vitamin E & carotenoids).
substance is used in a concentration of 0.5-10% in cosmetic
taken to the extraction plant
mixed with solvent = Floral concrète
concrète is dissolved with high-proof alcohol
is chilled = WAX + fragrant tincture
tincture is treated with vacuum distillation or evaporation =
Absolute + alcohol
used in perfumery
The Essential Wax is mixed with 100% virgin Hazelnut oil (which contains phospholipids, Oleic acid, vitamin E & carotenoids). This process carries all the valuable fatty components (carotenoids) in their original state into the raw wax that is naturally produced from the flowers. The wax becomes linked with the vegetable triglycerides.
The wax is stable and 100% natural and not susceptible to oxidation, so there is no need to add any (exogenous) type of antioxidants
1. The waxes have the melting point of the temperature of the human body. As a result, when the wax is applied, it immediately melts and creates a fine lipid-rich film that protects the skin and feels pleasant to the touch.
With this low melting point, the wax can be readily combined with other ingredients used to make cosmetics without the need for high temperatures.
2. The waxes linked to the
vegetable triglycerides show cosmetic activities that are not seen
in the original raw materials alone.
3. Resulting substance is used in a concentration of 0.5-5%
in cosmetic Products.
The virgin Hazelnut oil is
100% natural and subjected to a very rigorous selection process
based on the criteria of low peroxide, low acidity, correct ripeness
of the nut and it is extracted in a hydraulic, cold-extraction
process. The extraction
process involves neither organic solvents nor high temperatures.
With this process, the phospholipids and vitamin E that are
naturally present are carried through into the end product.
There are as many waxes as there are flowers being treated by
solvent extraction. Some that are available to us are Orange Flower
wax, Narcissus wax, Cassie wax, Jasmine wax, Rose wax, Tuberose wax
and others. Waxes can be used as part of the solid base of solid
perfumes or it can be added to skin care products where the waxes
properties are to soften, moisturize, soothe, as an emollient and
Properties of Essential Waxes
of Essential Wax
Flowers Essential Wax
the flowers of 2 trees =
1500 grams flowers = 100 grams wax
skin - more radiant skin
Diminishes the color spots of old age
Flowers Essential Wax
grams (3 kilos) flowers =
100 grams wax
40 square meters of land
as a chromophore at 300 nm (part of the
molecule which is responsible for the compound's color)
Reduces redness of the skin
Flowers Essential Wax
bigaradia or C. aurantium
flowers = 100 grams wax
Recommended for products intended for sensitive or yellowed
Flowers Essential Wax
centifolia & R. damascena
flowers (5000 grams) or flowers from 25 Rose bushes = 100
Recommended for products intended for itchy, dry or delicate
takes 3,600 kilos of individually handpicked blossoms to
one kilo of absolute from concrete and
to produce the wax
Recommended for products to restore the skin to a smoother
Cassie Flowers through the Ages. A.
farnesiana, named by Linnaeus, called Cassie, Opopanax, Popinac,
is now a warm weather American species, now pan tropical, introduced
into Australia before European settlement.
It is the source of essential oil (the Cassie of ancient
times), used for perfumery for the 'violet' scent and especially
cultivated in Southern France. It is a small tree growing to a
height of 4-6 meters, has irregular, twisted branches that are
covered in thorns. The
flowers are round and composed of a multitude of tiny, yellow gold
flowerets which are joined to the whole flower by a peduncle.
They are lusciously fragrant and smell of honey.
The honey of Acacia/Mimosa/Cassie is clear, does not solidify
and has a fresh light taste. The pods of this legume contain seeds
with high levels of tannins that have been used in astringent
medicines to treat skin, throat and eye problems.
The Cassie Flower
essential wax is a light yellow in color, fairly solid but malleable
and has the distinctive scent of the flowers. It is well tolerated
on the skin in its pure form. The properties of the wax are that it
is emollient and a powerful antioxidant. It contributes to ultra
violet filtering actions in any preparation in which it is used. The
wax is rich in carotenoids and vitamin E, and has powerful
moisturizing activity because of the presence of phospholipids.
Cassie Flower Wax is used
in creams in concentrations of 5-7.5% and is added to the fat phase
of the product before making an emulsion. It is used to reduce age
spots, regenerate dull skin and to lighten skin.
It is particularly suitable for skin care products designed
for dry skin or for age spots. It
makes a pleasant addition to a solid perfume.
Use the Cassie Flower Wax
in skin-lightening creams, sunscreens, for dry skin, delicate or
damaged skin, body hygiene products, products for combating aging
and for keeping the skin firm; in balms and relaxants; to purify and
detoxify the skin; in moisturizers; make-up products such as
foundations, lipstick as a pigment fixative and in aromatherapy and
massage products. The
scent will aid the emotions while the wax will add a physical
treatment to the skin.
Narcissus Flowers through the Ages.
Ovid, the Roman poet recounts the legend of Narcissus, a
young man that is so handsome that all the Nymphs fall in love with
him. One of the Nymphs, Echo who always wanted the last word had her
voice taken away by Juno/Hera. Echo loved Narcissus but because she
could not speak to him, only echo his words, pined away until only
voice remained but only in echo. Narcissus was cruel to Echo and to
all the Nymphs and so Juno/Artemis or the goddess of Vengeance,
allowed Narcissus a clear look at himself in a reflecting fountain.
He fell in love with the reflection, pined away until he lost
his vigor, color and beauty, and died. Where he died was only to be
found a flower, purple/red within, surrounded by white leaves with a
lovely fragrance. So
came an end to Echo and Narcissus. An unguent balm is now distilled
from the Narcissus at Chaeronea that is recommended for affections
of the ears (although the scent can give headache), as a vulnerary,
and for the cure of frostbite.
Some current uses of
extracts of Narcissus flowers is in the application on wounds and
disfiguring spots as well as for soothing and softening the skin.
The pure form of essential Wax of Narcissus seems to be well
tolerated with little allergic or irritation effects. It is a soft,
creamy color and can be used in a concentration of up to 10% in a
sunscreen cream. Narcissus
wax increases the sunscreen protective power.
Because of high levels of carotenoids and vitamin E,
Narcissus essential was is an excellent antioxidant and a powerful
scavenger of free radicals. It
acts as a powerful emollient. With
the phospholipids from the Hazelnut oil, the synergy of these two
substances in body care products has powerful moisturizing activity.
It is particularly suited
for products designed for the mature skin and in sunscreens or in
solid perfumery products.
Orange Flowers through the Ages.
Since the beginning of written history, Orange flowers have
symbolized purity and are used by brides in their flower arrangement
to represent purity and innocence.
In Roman times, Orange flowers were used only by trollops and
Arabs were the first to
use the Orange fruit for both food and medicinal purpose. By 1000
AD, the peel, seed, twig, leaf were all extracted for scent.
The essential oil and absolute is used in perfumery and in
body care products. Neroli
is the scent extracted from the bitter orange flowers.
The hydrosol of Orange flowers is called Orange flower water
and used in cookery to flavor drinks, and desserts.
The Orange tree is
indigenous to India and China, was introduced into Europe during the
time of the Crusades, and was introduced into the Newe Worlde after
Orange flower wax is a
soft, yellowish-orange wax with the soft, floral, powdery scent of
Neroli. It imparts the flower's special soothing and softening
qualities to any body care product. It is an ideal additive for
delicate skin. The phospholipids from the Hazelnut oil also give the
product a powerful moisturizing activity.
In addition, because of the carotenoids and vitamin E
content, Orange flower wax has free radical scavenging and
essential wax from Orange flowers is used in many ways. It is added
to shampoos for dull, lifeless hair; to body hygiene products; to
hand or body creams; moisturizing products; anti-aging and
restorative products for mature skin. It is added for toning and
soothing products for sensitive, dull or delicate skin; body care
products for purifying and detoxifying the skin; sunscreen and
after-sun products; all types of make-up products (to fix the
pigments); aromatherapy and massage oil products and teenage
products and for perfumery products as well.
Use the essential wax from
Orange flowers in a concentration of 0.5-5%.
Incorporate it into the fat phase of your product.
Rose Flowers Essential Wax.
Several species of Rose are used for the flower essential wax
including the Damask Rose (R.
damascena, the Bulgarian Rose) and the Cabbage Rose (R.
centifolia). The Rose has many years of history, folklore and
symbolic meaning behind it. "...Roses are a group of shrubs
found in the temperate areas of the world. The birthplace of the
cultivated Rose is probably ancient Persia, where the oldest Rose
was most likely a deep red color which suggests the myth of the Rose
springing from the blood of Adonis."
Roses come in all colors from the purist of the white to
delicate pink to red to almost purples. The Otto or essential oil of
Rose was first extracted in quantity in 1612 although the alchemists
found it earlier. Evocative of the Rose as a symbol of purity is an
ancient practice that continues in the present day. The so-called
“Fête des Rosières” was started by Saint Médard in the 4th
Century and still takes place today in many small French villages.
The aim of the festival is to instill the idea of 'virtue' in young
men and women. Those
selected are given a wreath of Roses and a small dowry.
The Rose is a source of inspiration, symbolic of love and its
many species and varieties have a myriad of cosmetic and medicinal
uses, mainly for skin care.
All types of Rose
preparations including those from the hip, seed, flower petal and
leaves of some, the tinctures, syrups, infusions and decoctions made
from these parts have purifying, regenerative, antiseptic, tonic and
astringent properties. Most preparations made from the Rose
including the essential wax are well tolerated by people.
The essential wax of Rose
flowers is mainly used in the treatment of skin that has been
irritated or damaged because of stress, wind, cold or pollution.
It is protective and softening in its action on the skin, it
has free radical-quenching and antioxidant activity and well as
being a powerful moisturizer.
Rose flower essential wax
is used in special products for the care of dry, damaged and
sensitive skin; moisturizers; balms. In products for purifying,
detoxifying, combating aging and wrinkles; for skin or body care;
body hygiene; shampoos for fine or damaged hair or for itchy scalp;
make-up products of all sorts as a pigment fixative and additional
moisturizer; for all types of aromatherapy or perfume products.
Use it in concentrations
of 0.5-5% in the fat phase of the product.
are available from Jeanne Rose. 219 Carl St. San Francisco, CA
Oils and Waxes are available from
Prima Fleur. 415/455-0957
Oils and absolutes from CH Imports, P. O. Box 18411, Greensboro,
NC 27419, PH 336/282-9734, e-mail: email@example.com
Oils are available from Natural Oils International, 9243 Cranford
Ave., Arleta, CA 91331,
PH 818/504-7383, www.naturaloils.com
Bulfinch, Thomas. Myths
of Greece and Rome
All rights reserved 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006. No part of this article may
Graves, Robert. The Greek
Mabberley, D. J. The Plant
Massot, P and F. Merot and J. Bardot. Phospholipid
Content in Hazelnut Oil blended with a moisturizing cosmetic
Product: Literature from Prima Fleur
Rose, Jeanne. The Aromatherapy
Book. Frog. 1999.
——— . AROMAtherapy 2037.
——— . The Herbal Body
Book. Jeanne Rose Aromatherapy.
1975, 2nd edition 2000.
be used without prior permission from Jeanne Rose.
© Authors Copyright Jeanne Rose,